Tags
erotic temple sculpture, general strike, humor, India, international travel, Konark, Odisha, Sun Temple, travel
It all started with a terrific breakfast.
Dawn was beautiful along the beach where India’s eastern coast meets the Bay of Bengal. The fabulous breakfast buffet helped us forget about the cancellation of the dance festival we’d planned our entire trip around. And—because we’re shallow like that, not at all bitter, forgetful old ladies, such sophisticated travelers—it actually worked. Especially the part where we realized we could have that breakfast again the next morning.
Properly fortified, we headed off to tour the Sun Temple.
Our general experience is that hired guides spend most of their time reprimanding us. “This way Madam. Madam, look here. Madam, come come. Madam I am telling you…”—by which point Madam has either wandered off to take pictures (Janine), actively interrupted his script by asking random questions (me), or lost all patience and started giving the tour herself since she clearly knows a LOT more history, better stories, and English (Jaya). Our usual technique has been to read up on the history and significant features before arriving at a site. But if it’s large, if the signage is nonexistent, and if the architecture stunning, we might opt for the guide. We have yet to find any reason to be glad we did so, and this trip proved no exception.
We arrived at the Sun Temple on the day that Konark was officially the hottest spot in all of India. Our new English-speaking guide’s first job was to find a stall where we could buy a sun umbrella so Janine and I didn’t die of sunstroke before we saw the temple. He brought us to his friend’s booth, who proceeded to unfurl the scariest bumbershoot ever. It was a rusty black object covered with bird poop, and opened in a cloud of dust to display actual spiderwebs and dead bugs. I screamed, Janine scrambled away, and Jaya herded us to another booth selling children’s umbrellas.
Five minutes later I had a green and orange striped umbrella—complete with embroidered stars and little mirrors, thank you very much—and we were good to go. Or we would have been, if our guide did, in fact, actually speak English. Jaya, who attempted valiantly to communicate with him, later confirmed that he also did not appear to speak Hindi or any of the handful of other languages she tried.
Still, he did manage to convey a few ‘facts’:
-
There are over 100,000 elephants** carved along the sides of the temple. (**GoogleFactCheck: probably closer to 2000)
- The seven monumental horses pulling the Sun God’s chariot represent the colors of the rainbow** (**GFC: It’s more likely that the horses represent the seven days of the week. Only one horse survives mostly intact.)
- There are over 160 different classical dance positions sculpted**. (**GFC: probably true)
- The chariot wheels were actually sundials**. (**GFC: Not only is this true, but you can tell time accurately down to the minute!)
We followed our museum experience with lunch in their restaurant—selected based on gourmet recommendations, reviews, the “Air Conditioned!” sign on the door—and had a blissfully cool and totally forgettable lunch served by waiters in purple shirts and what looked like cardboard Burger King crowns. Nobody mentioned the crowns, so we just figured that the wonderful people who allowed us to eat in their Air-Conditioned restaurant could wear whatever they wanted.
We had a choice at that point about whether to go to the Archaeological Survey of India’s excellent museum or visit a temple our driver knew of that had the skeleton and jaws of a gigantic shark which washed up there. Easy decision. (It was a great shark!)
Stopping only for photos of irresistible road signs along the way, we arrived back at Lotus Eco Resort for our final night there, already looking forward to a leisurely breakfast the next morning before heading to our next stop in Puri. That’s when the manager told us that Puri would be closed the next day for a general strike. India (or at least the bit we were in) would be closed.
Since we were supposed to be staying in Puri, our only option would be to leave before five AM the next morning; meaning not much sleep and—care of the strike—no chance of repeating that great breakfast.
.
On the road by 6AM, we peeled out for Puri.
Okay, first we stopped for chai. Then it was foggy, so our driver had to drive reeeeeeeally slowly. Then we stopped completely because our driver wanted us to take “selfie” of of the empty road with its avenue of trees.
But then we totally peeled. Okay, we crawled, slowly, because it was still so foggy. And because we needed to stop to get bananas.
But we finally arrived in Puri, having made the one-hour drive in a record (for us) three hours.
robertawrites235681907 said:
What a wonderful place to visit. Your photographs are outstanding.
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barbtaub said:
Thanks so much! (I can’t take any credit for the photos, though. For the most part they were taken by Janine Smith and Jaya Ayyer, my traveling companions.)
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Ritu said:
What a blast!! ( A hot one!!)
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barbtaub said:
Thanks Ritu! Despite the heat, it’s all SO much fun.
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Ritu said:
I can imagine !!!
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Darlene said:
Only you could make this funny!! The Sun Temple does look amazing. Where are the pictures of the kama sutra? (asking for a friend)
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barbtaub said:
Well we did get lots of pictures, including a few positions that weren’t included in the “official” Kama Sutra. But I think if people really want to know more, they can check out a translation of Vatsayana (https://read.amazon.in/kp/embed?asin=B07NPYWRZG&preview=newtab&linkCode=kpe&ref_=cm_sw_r_kb_dp_eL.ECbY9E2QH6) or if you need a more hands-on experience, you could try the Pop Up Kama Sutra (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pop-Up-Kama-Sutra-Paper-Engineered-Variations/dp/1584793023/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kama+sutra+pop-up&qid=1551628770&s=gateway&sr=8-3). I’m sure you won’t be surprised to hear there is a spectrum of versions in-between. But for more of the hundreds of erotic sculptures carved into the Sun Temple at Konark… I’d suggest a visit to India!
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Darlene said:
Thanks! I’ll pass this on to my friend.
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Mary Smith said:
Looking forward to Puri when it re-opens!
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barbtaub said:
Still traveling, but I’ll try to post more soon.
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quiall said:
The heart of an adventurer does stop at obstacles.
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barbtaub said:
I hope not! (Because then we’d be…you know—dead. )
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quiall said:
no, no, no, I meant does not stop!!!! DOES NOT STOP! I should not do things in a rush! So Sorry! You would never let a silly little thing like an obstacle slow you down. That’s why we love you!
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Lynette d'Arty-Cross said:
What a great time you seem to be having despite strikes, sun that will rip your skin off and cancelled festivals. India is a chaotic jewel box.
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barbtaub said:
When it works, India is amazing. And when it doesn’t work, I have something to write about.
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JT Twissel said:
You are brave ladies I’d say!
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barbtaub said:
Luckily (?) we didn’t see any actual tigers, so no bravery warranted. But we are lucky to be here and having so much fun.
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TanGental said:
ah Barb, we are with you every step of the way; and at least you didn’t do that ‘coconuts as boobs’ thing I could see you itching to deport. I mean, this was a tasteful, thoughtful, informative post.
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barbtaub said:
Of COURSE I went for the tasteful approach. (Boob coconuts was so last year’s post. Okay, and the year before that…)
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CarolCooks2 said:
Your travel companions take awesome images, Barb and the narrative was good wish I was there it is definitely on my to-do list b4 I get past it …India is definitely a land of many contrasts 🙂
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Terry Tyler said:
I think I’m going to read all this properly when it’s a book (hint hint!!!), but great pics, and good to see you’ve got your coconuts out again!!!
btw, we’ve been emailing about the Peak District 6 weekend – just thought I’d mention in case you’re having too much fun to check boring old emails (understandable!)!!!!
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