Sunday we woke to find our usual view of Florence buried under a blanket of fog. There was only one thing to do.
Road trip! We headed for Florence’s ancient rival, Siena.
How is San Francisco like Siena? They say, “When you get tired of walking around in San Francisco, you can always lean against it.” Same with the narrow, semi-vertical streets of Siena.
According to Siena’s origin legend, twin brothers Aschius and Senius, sons of Remus, were forced to flee when their uncle, Romulus, murdered their father. As their father and his twin had been suckled by a she-wolf before founding what became Rome, the city of Siena laid claim the she-wolf symbol, linking them to an ancient pedigree. Also, because the founding twins supposedly rode in on one black horse and one white horse, the colors were echoed in the stripes of the Siena Duomo cathedral and bell tower (as well as the traditional flag of Siena).
Inside, the Duomo Siena (Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption, constructed between 1136 and 1382) also echoes the stripes, framing a magnificent display of Renaissance art by masters such as Michelangelo, Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Donatello, Pinturicchio, and Ghiberti, with a dome lantern designed by Bernini.
Across from the Cathedral is the ancient 15th century Santa Maria della Scala hospital (now museum), with its magnificent frescoes covering the walls of the wards, once lined with patients’ beds. The top image shows one of the hospital’s roles as home to foundling girls. Babies are brought to the hospital, provided care along with religious and job training, and eventually a dowry as the young woman on the center right is shown getting married.
In addition to the murals, the museum houses a magnificent art collection. With the pandemic limiting tourists, the empty museum halls felt oddly intimate, as if all that splendor was on display for only me.
The Madonna della Misericordia by Domenico di Bartolo 1444, known locally as the Virgin of the Cloak, is a superb example of the frescos for which Siena is famous. This was originally on an outside wall, and was moved into the Santa Maria della Scala (along with its entire wall) in 1608. Because the new location didn’t have enough room for the entire fresco, surviving bits were placed outside the frame on surrounding walls.
Madonna with child, angels, Saint John Baptist and Saint Andrew By Taddeo di Bartolo, c. 1400.[NOTE: I’m particularly fascinated by what appears to be Mary surrounded by a bunch of miniature KKK clansmen in pointy hoods, gazing up at the cross she’s holding as if contemplating burning it. I had NO idea they went back that far…]
Lorenzo di Pietro, known as the Vecchietta Arliquiera, 1445-1446. Stories of the Passion
Plaster casts of works by sculptor Tito Sarrocchi (5 January 1824 – 1900)
With the one-way system strictly enforced due to covid restrictions, the path wound down and down. Finally, four flights below the entrance, I emerged into a back lot. The guard tried to explain. I would have to circle the museum, and climb four steep flights of stairs to return to the entrance where the Hub and dog were waiting. My fitness watch—the Hub’s idea of the perfect birthday present—had long ago acknowledged that I’d met my daily steps goal, and as far as I could tell, had gone back to sleep. I desperately wanted to join it, but this was Italy. Somewhere, somehow, gelato was waiting for me.
In a country that perfected the piazza, Siena’s Piazza del Campo is often called the loveliest, serving as marketplace, setting for civic events, executions, bullfights, and celebrations. At its center is the Palazzo Pubblico, with its medieval fresco-covered walls (including Lorenzetti’s Allegories of Good and Bad Government (1338-40) where the city flourishes under good civic practices while under bad ones the streets are covered by trash and ruined buildings). Through the Palazzo is the entrance to the 330-foot high Torre del Mangia (bell tower). The piazza itself has a unique pattern of bricks radiating out in nine fan shapes meant to echo the Madonna’s cloak. Medieval merchants businesses have given way to restaurants, bars, shops, and…
The perfect gelato.
The other event the Piazza del Campo is famous for is Siena’s freewheeling horserace, the Palio. Sadly, this year’s Palio was cancelled for the first time since WWII due to the pandemic. Normally, ten jockeys mounted on horses drawn by lots race three times around the edges of the Piazza in a display with only one rule: a rider can’t interfere with the reins of another horse. Bribery, treachery, guile—it’s all allowed, expected, and rewarded. Riders whip horses and each other with crops made of stretched and dried bull penises (which is so NOT a line I ever imagined writing…) Horses can win if they cross the finish without their rider. (I don’t have a picture, but this scene from the 2008 Bond film, Quantum of Solace, will give you an idea.)
Gelato accomplished, masks back in place, and the sun sinking low, we knew it was time to head down to the car. (The operative word, here, is DOWN.)
As we walked down…
…and down…
And further down through the medieval streets of Siena…
We came to the Fontebranda, Siena’s oldest remaining fountain. The original fountain was around in 1081, was enlarged into its present form in 1246 by the Wool Guild, and was mentioned in Dante’s Inferno. The three gothic arches mark what were once separate basins for drinking water, animals, and laundry. My dog was delighted to confirm that the famous water still tastes wonderful almost a thousand years later.
I'd LOVE you to share this. Please pick a button. Heck, pick all of them!
I think the two things that have amazed me the most about Italy (so far anyway) are the light and the colors. The light can be this glowing presence that just infuses everything it touches. And the colors of paintings done directly onto walls are still so vibrantly intense I have to look at the dates to believe they could have been done so many centuries ago.
It kind of puts having to repaint the house every few years into perspective. I’d love to slap on some of that blue ceiling color, and then come back in 500+ years to see if it needs any touchups…
Apparently we’re just high enough in the hills above Florence to sit above the morning fog, which turns pink as the sun rises above it. Then this incredible clear golden light splashes over the Duomo and pours across the city. I can really see why Florence has been home to artists over the centuries. That light!
I love Siena. Thanks for lovely tour. The pointy cap (a capirote) is very old and has experienced many incarnations of meaning. Only in the US does it have racist connotations, though.
Sienna is fabulous. The last time I was there it was the day of the horse race and the town was full of people dressed in Renaissance clothes in the colours of the different quarters of the town. It was all quite exciting even if you didn’t go into the piazza, which we didn’t.
I’ve never seen the race either. I’ve heard you basically have to come the night before—or fork over the BIG €€€—to get a spot. It would be something to see though!
Yes, when we passed the piazza two or three hours before the race, it was already full. It was a really hot day, so it can’t have been fun standing in the sun for all that time.
Sue Vincent said:
What a fabulous day!
LikeLiked by 1 person
barbtaub said:
It was a LOT of climbing, but totally worth it!
LikeLike
Sue Vincent said:
I can see that! I’d give my eye teeth to see some of those works…
LikeLiked by 1 person
barbtaub said:
I think the two things that have amazed me the most about Italy (so far anyway) are the light and the colors. The light can be this glowing presence that just infuses everything it touches. And the colors of paintings done directly onto walls are still so vibrantly intense I have to look at the dates to believe they could have been done so many centuries ago.
LikeLike
Sue Vincent said:
I thought about those colours, just looking at your photographs… and wonder what minerals they were grinding to make such intense pigments.
LikeLiked by 1 person
barbtaub said:
It kind of puts having to repaint the house every few years into perspective. I’d love to slap on some of that blue ceiling color, and then come back in 500+ years to see if it needs any touchups…
LikeLike
Sue Vincent said:
That would be cool…
LikeLike
Cathy said:
That was a day well spent, amazing buildings and sights…and gelato 😉 I love the foggy picture too, very atmospheric.
LikeLiked by 1 person
barbtaub said:
Apparently we’re just high enough in the hills above Florence to sit above the morning fog, which turns pink as the sun rises above it. Then this incredible clear golden light splashes over the Duomo and pours across the city. I can really see why Florence has been home to artists over the centuries. That light!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Cathy said:
Sounds fabulous.
LikeLike
Mary Smith said:
Thanks for sharing your fabulous day out in Siena with us, Barb.
LikeLiked by 1 person
barbtaub said:
Thanks, Mary. I still can’t believe I was really there. Renaissance Italy is magical.
LikeLike
Darlene said:
Looks wonderful. Glad the dog enjoyed it too.
LikeLiked by 1 person
barbtaub said:
We have a gelato deal. I eat down as far as the cone, and she handles the rest of it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Darlene said:
Dot and I have the same arrangement, except now when the ice cream truck comes, she gets her own cone! Not spoiled at all.
LikeLike
joylennick said:
Another fabulous adventure, Barb. What treasures you’ve seen,and what glorious, photos. Thank you for sharing. I couldn’t get enough of Italy…x
LikeLike
Lynette d'Arty-Cross said:
I love Siena. Thanks for lovely tour. The pointy cap (a capirote) is very old and has experienced many incarnations of meaning. Only in the US does it have racist connotations, though.
LikeLike
April Munday said:
Sienna is fabulous. The last time I was there it was the day of the horse race and the town was full of people dressed in Renaissance clothes in the colours of the different quarters of the town. It was all quite exciting even if you didn’t go into the piazza, which we didn’t.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Barb Taub said:
I’ve never seen the race either. I’ve heard you basically have to come the night before—or fork over the BIG €€€—to get a spot. It would be something to see though!
Blogging at https://barbtaub.com/
>
LikeLiked by 1 person
April Munday said:
Yes, when we passed the piazza two or three hours before the race, it was already full. It was a really hot day, so it can’t have been fun standing in the sun for all that time.
LikeLike
JT Twissel said:
I think when the sun is going down or coming up it’s the best time to take pictures in Italy. Those old buildings just glow – lovely shots.
LikeLike
marysue7 said:
Have you heard about the EMILY IN PARIS series ?
Reading your blog I keep thinking BARBARA in ITALY (or SCOTLAND, or SPAIN …)
LikeLike