Hamburg is supposed to be lovely this time of year. I wouldn’t know.
“Meet me in Hamburg,” my travel buddy Jaya said. I was pretty busy but she played her ace card—an adorable baby grandson I haven’t met yet.
When I went to book my flight, I was blown away by the incredibly low prices on one of the famous budget airlines (which I totally won’t tell you was RyanAir because I don’t want them to sue me…). But here’s the thing. I travel a lot. So I was pretty sure I knew how to buy a plane ticket.
I hate it when I’m so wrong. As soon as I booked the trip, the upselling started. Did I want a rental car? Airport parking? Trip insurance? Hotel? Bus pass? Entertainment? Was I planning on bringing any luggage larger than (one) purse? Did I want food, a seat, or air to breathe? All extra.
It was only going to be an hour and a half trip, so I decided to ignore all the offers. My flight was out of Edinburgh Airport, but the extra half hour drive seemed worth it for that fabulously low fare. Although I left home at O’dark:thirty with plenty of time to spare, there was a surprising amount of traffic. I arrived at the airport with only 45 minutes until my flight. No problem. Since one of the few bits I’d bothered to read among the sea of upselling was that not-RyanAir would charge an additional €50 for anyone who didn’t check in online, I already had my boarding pass, assigned seat, and minuscule luggage item purse.
So with boarding pass in hand and the clock ticking, I headed straight for Airport Security. On the way I passed a sign reminding passengers to get their visa check, but I ignored it because Americans don’t need visas for EU countries. The Security check is a remarkably well-organized and quick process at Edinburgh Airport, so minutes later I was looking for my gate on the Departures Board. I arrived at the gate as they were already boarding the plane, so I congratulated myself on being such an efficient traveler.
And that’s when the gate agent looked at my boarding pass and frowned.
Agent: “Did you get the visa check?”
Me: “I don’t need a visa. I’m an American.”
Agent: “But you have to get your visa check.” She pointed to a small line at the top of my boarding pass that said, enigmatically, ‘visa check’.
Me: [I tried again to explain that no visa check was needed, because no visa was needed. When she looked at me blankly, I repeated this information in smaller words, finally stopping myself when I started talking like Tarzan on speed: “Have ticket. Have passport. Don’t need visa.”] Please?
(Unconvinced) Agent: “I can’t let you board this plane.” Instead, she informed me, I would have to go back out through security, downstairs to the ticketing desk, have them verify my non-visa status, come back up through security, and not get on the plane because it would be long gone.
Me: “Wouldn’t it be easier for you to just look at my passport and boarding pass, have me prove that I can stuff my little purse into your proper online purse-sizing bin, and use the empty seat I’ve already bought?”
Agent (with all the enthusiasm of a gate agent who has just been told it would be a lot easier to just let me board with my purse-sized crate of automatic weapons and box cutters): “No. You should leave now.”
Back downstairs, I waited in a long line at the not-RyanAir desk, only to be informed that my flight had already departed. And that I didn’t need a visa. And that they had no idea about other flights, so I’d have stand in yet another line, where (much, much later) I was informed that my flight had already left, I didn’t need a visa, and that they’d be happy to book me on their next flight free of charge.
Me: Great! When does it leave?
Desk Agent: In two and a half days.
Me: …

[image credit: tenor.com]
So I did what any savvy, sophisticated, experienced traveller would do. I cancelled my hotel, told my friend I wasn’t coming, and cried my way through the better part of a carton of Ben & Jerry’s Peanut Butter Cup ice cream.
But all was not lost. Since I was already in Edinburgh, I decided to have another go at picking up a ceiling light at Georgian Antiques.
Although I now know where to go for all my dead wolf needs, I got the distinct impression that the universe was trying to give me a message. Probably involving staying in bed, preferably with another carton of Ben & Jerry’s best.

[image credit: Bridget Jones’ Diary]
Yeah, I think seeing s bunch of wolf heads that were not actually attached to living wolves would be enough to send me home for more ice-cream…
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Not to mention bed-cowering!
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Oh my! So sorry you missed out on the trip. Remind me sometime to tell you about our non Ryan Air experience.
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So Kass…tell me about your not-RyanAir experience?
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Okay, you asked for it. 🙂
You know those weight limits on your luggage, well, a small notRyanAir airline had a very strict limit that was also rather low (and they charged a ridiculously high fee if you went over). I can’t remember what the fee actually was, but let’s just say that large air pockets in your bags would be required to stay under it, as in your luggage could double as flotation devices if the plane crashed into the English Channel. So we’re about to take this airline from France to Ireland a few years ago and I am madly trying to pack the first-leg-of-the-journey souvenirs in such a way that none of our bags exceed that limit.
And then there was the whole mentally changing kilos to pounds thing, so I wasn’t at all sure if we were okay.
When we approached the counter, I said to Tom, who speaks fluent French, “You talk to them if any of the bags are overweight, and try to get them not to charge extra.”
Well, one bag was overweight so Tom launches into the spiel about how we tried really hard to get the weights right, but you know, souvenirs… Only he’s saying all of this in English!
The young lady at the counter is listening politely as she’s checking us in, and I’m hissing in Tom’s ear, “I asked you to do the talking so you could do so in FRENCH.”
He ignored me (something he’s really good at after 42 years of practice).
Once we walked away from the counter, I said, “Why didn’t you speak French?”
His response: “Hey, she was much more likely to waive the fee for an American tourist than if she thought I was just another French person like herself.” And I couldn’t argue with that, because she did waive the fee.
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“He ignored me (something he’s really good at after 42 years of practice).” BwaHaHaHa!!! Love this story. (Although, in my case, speaking in French might have been a good idea.)
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Oh what a disaster.
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It’s obviously just me…other people seemed to be able to get on that plane without too much trouble (although I suspect by the time you’ve paid for luggage/seat/food/goddess-only-knows-what-else, you’re back up to what the other airlines are charging!).
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Ugh, who would want a wolf’s head hanging on the wall! So sorry you missed your trip.
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I do feel very sorry for me… But on the plus side, my walls are decapitated-wolf-less!
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Oh, that certainly would have been a day better spent in bed under the covers.
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I completely agree with you!
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Reblogged this on Smorgasbord – Variety is the spice of life and commented:
Barb Taub on an adventure of epic proportions.. and she was only trying to get out of Edinburgh airport. Budget airlines are great.. provided you are a 5 year old and can get your undies and a change of clothes in a clutch! Anyway I will let Barb take you through the saga…#recommended
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Oh, what a disastrous day, Barb. And those wolves’ heads are the stuff of nightmares. Definitely warrant at least two tubs of peanut butter ice cream to aid recovery.
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I know! Those heads are like something straight out of a horror movie. (I’d love to know WHO would buy them, and for what purpose.)
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And who sold them in the first place? No, who had them in their possession – and why?
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That made me laugh. Funnily enough our one Ryan Air special offer experience was great – a Feb flight to Saltzburg for a penny each way – plus insurance. I did grumble we had to go to Stansted when we lived right by Heathrow, but all went well for our little weekend break – of course had it gone wrong poor Cyberspouse would never have heard the end of it! BUT the time we had some air miles and decided to take two of our children from Heathrow on the British Airways shuttle to Edinburgh we ended up in Glasgow!
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Haha! Okay, I’m kind of in awe at your penny flights, but ending up in Glasgow? How did you get home?
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We lost a few hours of our weekend but got on a bus from Glasgow to Edinburgh and ended up near our B&B looking over The Links – the world’s first golf course.
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This was a great chuckle for a Friday morning – and boy, can I relate. We have had a permutation of this happen to us, but Hubs was less sanguine. Mmm, I’m not familiar with RyanAir but will be trying JetBlue for the first time in a couple of weeks. It’s sort of like a cattle call boarding.
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I’ve drawn a line. Just like I’m really too old and spoiled to sleep in hostels, or share bathrooms with total strangers, or vacation anywhere I have to put on shoes to use the loo, I’ve realized I’m too old for Ryan Air.
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Your holiday disasters are WAAAAY more interesting and funny than mine (and I’ve not yet told the one about the 6 hour journey with a stray dog in the car). I’m sure it wasn’t funny at the time but a fabulous tale in hindsight. Stand-out line; ‘where to go for all my dead wolf needs’. 😉
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I have a feeling your stray dog (a stowaway?) story is great!
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Seriously???? Infuriating.
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Thank you! It wasn’t the lost money that bothered me nearly as much as the lost holiday with friends.
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Barb, this is hilarious! Well, for me the reader, but I doubt for you the traveler. Many thanks!
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Well Barb, now I know that the one advantage of being South African is that you know in advance that you will be treated with deep suspicion everywhere you go and that you need to do all the security checks and any others that are conjured up for travelers from the dark continent and that 3 hours in advance of the flight is really necessary for Africans. He he.
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In the age of trump ( I refuse to capitalize hate) those from the fractured states will learn about that deep suspicion…
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So sad but so true.
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Hmm… a poem has just started coming out of me onto my laptop about a Drama Queen! 🙂
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“I hate it when I’m so wrong.”
Really?
I’m not buyin’ it.
Piri and I know you too well.
You are seldom wrong, but when you are … you just blow through it.
“Tomorrow is another day,” is the refrain Piri and I hear time and time again.
Merry Christmas (just in case I forgot to say so last time around).
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Oh my Lord! How did you not maul that attendant that made you miss your flight! Ahh! I love to travel but getting from point A to point B sometimes makes me rethink my hobby. Enjoy the ice cream- you deserve a couple of pints!!!
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Americans traveling in Europe may not need a visa – BUT they should have to prove they did NOT vote for TRUMP.
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Horsefeathers, bushwa! and AKKKK! How horribly frustrating. I’m afraid I would have had a meltdown and been arrested. No point in retraining that agent. You can’t fix stupid.
Great big hug to you Barb.
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I’m not familiar with this airline, for which I’m now very grateful but I am familiar with the total lack of common sense that seems to afflict so many check in agents. Ben & Jerry’s was the obvious solution.
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This business of having to have ‘the stamp’ is entirely new to me and recently I forgot to get it – I know, they say you don’t need it, but… I was in the departure lounge and hadn’y got it when I presented my boarding pass at the gate. A very nice (thank goodness there are a few of them about) person said “Never mind. I can stamp it right here for you. But try not to forget again.” I wonder if she recognised the lightning flashes building up behind my eyes…
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I have forwarded this article to a friend in London who use to keep a flat here in France. She would fly back and forth about once a month on not-ryanair… Oh the stories! Perhaps we should have stopped for the ice cream as soon as we left the airport in Carcassonne?
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Yes, and after the ice cream, gone straight for the Eurostar… friends don’t let friends fly notRyanAir.
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And she wonders why I’m in no rush to visit London… Actually, she is from Glasgow, lives/works in London but as I am far in the south of France, even notRyanAir, would get her here sooner. She would enjoy the ice cream andfor me, I did enjoy the times I took Eurostar. 🙂
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